I had to take the saw outside for better light to see what the medallion said. First I jointed the teeth with a file to get them all to the same flat. Since we want to accent the etch as dark as possible, following the exact procedure for creating a consist, buffed gun barrel effect is not really useful. I also sanded down some of the other sections that had scratches or dings that made the saw less comfortable to hold. Unfortunately it seems that E. This is not a lesson on saw sharpening, for that go to VintageSaws sharpening primer. This turned out to be a much longer post than I intended.
After it soaks with WD on it for 10 minutes or more, I use a razorblade scraper with a new blade in it, to scrape from heel to toe and work the crud to the end. Extra slim taper file shaping the teeth. Got any before pics of the etch? This turned out to be a much longer post than I intended. What I lack is a rip saw that has finer teeth that can cut deeper than my dovetail saw. Usually I find when you think you are done scraping, you can actually do a couple more rounds of it. I do this because it is flat and it keeps the ooze from getting all over my bench. While the finish was drying, I worked on cleaning up the medallion and the saw nuts. For some reason, old saw nuts not the split nuts have larger heads, but very narrow slots. First I jointed the teeth with a file to get them all to the same flat. Originally Posted by trc65 View Post It may not be, but they sure are pretty! If I were concerned about preserving the etch, I would not use the cleanser on it because I think it may fade it some. The more you do, the less work will need to follow. I held the tote in my hand and used a pencil to trace where my index finger resided. The top shows the tote as found. I have done this on a few saws and I like the feeling of it. Atkins 53 Saw Plate The saw plate on this saw was in pretty good condition to begin with. If I wanted a shinier and smoother blade I would have to turn to wet-dry sandpaper on a flat sanding block with an oil lubricant. I had to take the saw outside for better light to see what the medallion said. This will convert them from little cutting knives into little chisels. Next time, I'm scraping it with a razor blade, sanding with on a block, then applying gun blue. So I do know the saw was made after and am sure it was before when the handles were all flat sided after Borg-Warner acquired the company. Every so often I mop up the slurry of oil and rust and crud then do it again. I slide the handle onto a piece of flat steel and then clamp the steel into a vise. I dragged the side of the teeth along a fine sharpening stone to remove any burrs. Best results were rubbing in the gun blue, letting it dry, washing the blade in warm water, lightly sanding, then letting it sit for a few days.
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Atkins Saw Factory in Indianapolis
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